DEPT · FOOD 🍷

Casa Botín

Guinness World Records has recognised Casa Botín as the oldest continuously operating restaurant on Earth since 1987 — it opened in 1725 and has never closed for good since, not even through the Spanish Civil War.

The story

The building itself dates to at least 1590, originally a private home built not long after Philip II moved the royal court to Madrid. In 1725, French cook Jean Botín and his Asturian wife opened a small inn on the ground floor — a casa de comida, or house of food, aimed at merchants and traders working the nearby Plaza Mayor market. It passed to a nephew, who gave the restaurant the name it still carries today, Sobrino de Botín ("Botín's nephew"). The González family has owned and run it since 1930, now into a third generation, and the same wood-fired oven installed in 1725 has reportedly never gone cold — stoked daily even through the Spanish Civil War and the Covid-19 lockdowns.

What to order

Roast suckling pig (cochinillo asado) and roast lamb (lechazo), both cooked in that same centuries-old oven, are the house specialities — dishes Ernest Hemingway wrote into his novel The Sun Also Rises, cementing the restaurant's reputation with English-speaking visitors for decades since. Callos a la madrileña (Madrid-style tripe stew) and garlic soup with egg are other classic orders.

What to expect

Four floors connected by a spiral staircase, oak beams, and dining rooms that genuinely look their age — this isn't a themed recreation of an old restaurant, it's the real thing, largely unchanged. Expect tourists as well as loyal Madrid regulars in roughly equal measure, and a queue without a reservation, especially around lunch.

Booking tip

Reserve ahead, particularly around Madrid's big dates like San Isidro (15 May) or Christmas — a table near the wood oven is worth requesting specifically if you want the full sensory experience.